Aged Pork and How to Eat It

Howdy, folks. Today's story is a sort of continuation of the previous aged beef topic. This time, we're delving into dry aged pork - which is something you definitely don't want to miss out on.

The process of dry aging pork is very similar to that of beef – so similar, in fact, that here at the ‘Block, the dry age unit we use for beef is also used for pork (pork always beneath beef - order of operations, people.) The humidity level we keep the unit at is ideal for aging both beef and pork; between 25% and 30% roughly. That provides a perfect environment for the bacteria we want to grow and the bacteria we don’t want to not grow. But circumstances vary – don’t be put off if you see a fine layer of fuzz on the meat. All of such molds and growths will get trimmed off the surface and will not have penetrated the flesh itself. In fact, that fuzz is largely responsible for the final product.

Currently, the only pork we dry age at the ‘Block is the bone-in loin, which, when finished, is trimmed and cut into individual "cowboy" -style chops, though the possibility exists for a customer to preorder a multi-bone roast. Speaking of which, our dry aged meat goes quickly – if you’re interested in getting your hands on some, let us know and we’ll put your name on the list.

The loins age for a maximum of 21 days. Unlike beef, pork is a bit more volatile in aging. Too long results in an undesirable taste or even makes the loin unusable, depending on how far the aging process has set in or how much moisture is lost. 21 days, we found, is the perfect amount of time for developing a delicious, rich flavor and buttery-soft tenderness.

Now let’s get into the meat of it, so to speak. I recently took home a single chop from our most recent dry aged pork loin. I didn’t have an exact plan in mind for how I would cook it, only that I wanted it to be as straightforward as possible. When it comes to dry aged meat I try to not cover up the flavor as much as possible. My plan did change a bit as I began my prep.

To begin, I grabbed my ever-trusty cast iron pan and coated the bottom in a fine layer of oil. I laid the chop out and seasoned it simply with coarse kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper (if you don’t use a pepper grinder, start now – it is a world apart from the pre-ground stuff and will make everything you use it in much more flavorful.) Both sides seasoned, I let it sit as I prepped my other ingredients. Campari tomatoes, halved and treated with the same salt and pepper. Fresh garlic cloves, crushed to remove the skin, fresh thyme and a couple tablespoons of butter set aside for later. Pan on the stove, heating begins.

In the meantime, I realized I needed something else to accompany the chop. I looked in my fridge and pantry; a ripe yellow peach, a handful of blackberries, a bottle of white balsamic vinegar… an idea took shape and I chased it down. I chopped roughly a quarter of the peach into small chunks and put them along with the handful of blackberries into a small pan and began gently cooking it down. Once they were softening up and the juices of the berries were releasing, I threw in maybe a half teaspoon’s-worth of fresh thyme leaves, a drizzle of the white balsamic and a rough tablespoon of butter. A sprinkle of salt and pepper, mix it up, let it barely simmer for a while. A sauce was born.

Pan preheated, I put the chop in and let it sit on one side until a beautiful, golden-brown crust had formed, then flipped it. I placed the tomatoes cut side down in the same pan, along the edge, and tossed in the butter, garlic, and thyme, then began basting the whole affair. Once the chop reached about 140F internally, I pulled it out and let it rest on a wire rack. Flip the tomatoes, baste some more with the leftover drippings, then in goes a couple slices of French bread, just to crisp each side in the same drippings. Plate the chop dead-center on the dish and fan out the tomatoes and bread on opposite sides, then spoon a good amount of the peach-blackberry sauce overtop the chop. Dinner is served.

I do not say this lightly when I say that chop was the best piece of pork I’ve ever eaten. It was unbelievably tender, sure, but the flavor… the flavor was unlike anything I’ve encountered. Incredibly rich and buttery, with the barest hint of earthy funk. “Decadent” is the word I want to use. The sauce turned out to be a perfect pairing - sweet and tangy, but not so much that it overpowered the pork. It was a delightful complement.

I had a moment of clarity as those flavors were swimming around in which I asked myself, "Why have I never had this before? Why aren't more people doing this?" I suppose it ultimately comes down to time, but let me tell you, it is absolutely worth the wait. If you’re looking for something familiar yet different and delicious, dry aged pork is the way to go. I think it is also a great way to introduce yourself to dry aged meat if you’ve never had it before – beef tends to develop more funk through aging, so pork would be a good steppingstone for those who are uncertain. That said, I encourage you, dear reader, to seek out this marvel of culinary craft and treat yourself to a dinner, or lunch, or breakfast, of deliciousness. There is no wrong time to try something new.